The Bistrots You Actually Want to Find

Around day two in Paris, everyone has the same moment. You've done the café with the nice view. You've queued for something you saw on Instagram. And you think: this isn't it.

What you want is a real bistrot. Not white tablecloths and a ten-page wine list. A zinc counter, a chalkboard that changes with the market, a waiter who calls you "chérie" without even thinking about it.

I grew up in Paris. I've spent years at these tables, first as a guest, now as someone whose job is knowing where to send people. Here are three I actually love :

Les Tourelles, near Bastille. Simple, no fuss, the room fills up on its own by the second glass.

Chez l'Ami Louis, in the 3rd. Small, loud, generous cooking. Not a secret anymore, but still excellent.

Les Lyonnais, near the Bourse. Lyon's cooking in Paris quenelles, warm saucisson, simple and good.

These places don't need me to be good. What helps, sometimes, is knowing the room: when it fills up, who to ask for, how not to look lost when you walk in.

That's the part of my job I like. Finding the table that actually holds on a Saturday night, not the one that disappears if you're five minutes late.

Go find your bistrot. Sit at the counter if they'll let you. Order what your neighbor is having.